Monday, November 17, 2014

Ballyferriter and Dingle Peninsula

This weekend I went on a trip to an Irish-speaking area (a.k.a. a Gaeltacht), Ballyferriter, located on the Dingle Peninsula. I went with a group of 16 other students who are taking the Irish language course offered for visitors at UCC. We had an amazing time!

This group consisted of students from all over Europe and had a minority of students from the US and Canada. It was great to hang out with new people and we quickly became a little family over the 2.5 day journey. We departed from campus in the afternoon on Friday and began our 3-hour drive to the Dingle Peninsula. 


As you may remember from my previous trip to Dingle, my stomach hates this winding and bumpy ride. I was extremely nervous getting back on a small bus heading to this area, but was glad to fall asleep for most of the trip. We got stuck in traffic for about an hour but luckily I made it without getting ill and we arrived around 7:30pm. When we got to the building we were assigned our rooms and settled in. UCC owns a building/hostel down the street from Ballyferriter so we bunked there for the weekend. Anticipating a room with 16 mattresses on the ground, I was pleased to find myself in a two-person room with my friend, Julia. 

After we put away our things we headed downstairs to the dining room for sandwiches and tea. We then had a local talk to us and explain what it was like to grow up in an Irish-speaking area and raise her kids there (she spoke English, as do most of the Gaeltacht residents who are fluently bilingual). 

Though I was a bit tired, we decided to start the trip out right by heading down the road to one of three pubs in Ballyferriter. The group had a wonderful time and I even talked to some older men sitting at the bar. I mentioned how I was Irish and how my grandmother emigrated from County Westmeath. They asked her maiden name, I said "Holden," and they recalled their being a Leather shop about 20 minutes away with that name. And then it hit me. 

Remember me saying that my family had taken a bus around the whole Island when I was younger and that I only remember bits and pieces of the trip? Well then I remembered. WE HAD GONE TO HOLDEN LEATHERGOODS. That was the Holden. My grandmother's family. Easily and correctly referenced with a single name by two Irish-speaking strangers in the town of Ballyferriter that's population is under 300. What a small world (!), or small country? Well, that was a fun night! I had returned to the table of students for about an hour when I heard through the whole (small) pub: "Bye Kansas!" I waived and smiled back at my new friends as they left. They were just so adorable.

The next morning we took a tour of some of the Peninsula's many archaeological sites. We visited two awesome structures, Gallarus Oratory and Kilmalkedar Church. We stopped to see a couple of gorgeous beaches, we walked down to where the ferry from the Blasket Islands docks along the Dingle Peninsula, and even went shopping at a local pottery store





Kilmalkedar Church. You are supposed to go to heaven if you squeeze through the back window, worth a try!
Gallarus Oratory.




I got to revisit Dingle and ate some ice cream (a better experience than my last time in this cute town), and returned to the hostel for a group lunch. We had free time for the afternoon and decided to take a little walk in the country. This walk was eventful. We met a local dog, Rex, who served as our tour guide for the afternoon. Then we met two other dogs along the way. We got soaked in a small rain shower. We got scared by a man on a bicycle. We saw a DOUBLE RAINBOW. We saw sheep herded by Rex, twice. And we befriended a horse and two goats. 


That night we ate dinner and had a singing and dancing lesson from another local woman.

After our musical endeavors we set out for a Ballyferriter pub crawl (two total, we had already visited the third) and it was a blast! The first pub was fine but the second pub was even better because there was a cute shih tzu I played with and we practiced our Irish with a hilarious (perhaps intoxicated) man named Seamus.

On Sunday we went to a mass in Irish and took a walk to the beach. It was beautiful (though a bit cold), and we attempted a classic jumping photo! On the way back we saw a calf that was only four days old and a pregnant cow as well. We then cooked lunch, loaded up, and headed home. 





This was my least expensive trip and I was unsure if I wanted to go after a stressful week of school. In hindsight, this was one of my most favorite experiences so far! It was so very Irish - if that makes any sense - nothing fancy, nothing extravagant.We had good food, lots of tea, beautiful scenery, and new (awesome) people to share it all with. I am so grateful for experiences like these, especially as my time in Cork begins to dwindle. Go raibh maith agat (Thank you)!

Yours,

The Opinionated Lassie

ALSO: I decided to try my hand as video blogging (vlogging) and this is my first trip! Check out my video and if you have a Youtube account please subscribe to my new channel: The Opinionated Lassie.



Thanks for watching!

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