A Park and a Trench

This week is heritage week in Cork and the city uses this time to open many sites and exhibits to the public for free. Yesterday, on the biggest day of the event, I went for an official tour of St. Fin Barre's Cathedral and I saw a ringing demonstration in the church's bell tower. Today, I visited the Cork Public Museum and Fitzgerald Park.

First, St. Fin Barre's:

I accidentally got in the bell tower tour line and, not learning my mistake until 30 minutes of waiting, decided to go on that tour. I climbed 54 very narrow and winding stairs to a small room where bell players come every Sunday to serenade the city with their tunes. Church bells are far more complicated than I anticipated and they teach beginners how to play on Wednesdays if my interest increases in the near future. Apparently bell ringers are a bit hard to come by so sometimes churches with bells will retire the set for a period of time because they have no one to play them. That is where the Wednesday night offer comes into play.

 

Next I went into the church for a walking tour which I was very impressed with and intrigued by. The church, an Anglican cathedral (now I know), has been involved in many aspects of the city's history and preserves that history throughout the building. 

Hanging beside the altar area is a cannon ball from the Seige of Cork in 1690. It was fired from the nearby Elizabeth Fort and was found during a construction project lodged in the spire. 

The back side of the church features a gold angel with two horns coming from its mouth. Local Cork legend claims that when the end of the world comes the angel will sound the horns. However they will sound an hour early giving Cork residents time to do whatever they want before the end. A few years ago, UCC students got on the roof of the church and stole the angel. The rod holding the angel was severely rotted when officials went to investigate. Had they not stolen it, the statue would have tumbled to the ground within two years. I am sure that this fact helped the students when it came to punishment. Because I wasn't able to get good pictures of these two interesting things, I found the following pictures of the diocese's website. 

 

The following pictures are the ones that I took.

This beautiful painting is above the altar. Right behind the intersecting beams is a mural of Jesus. The mural was painted in that location so that no one can see all of Jesus from any location in the church - one can only see bits and parts. The only place you can see all of Jesus is from where the other painted people surrounding Jesus are - a.k.a. in Heaven - it's a metaphor.

 

Today I walked to the Cork Public Museum, which I thought was free just today, but it turns out it is free always, so, I may have to go back. I went to the museum for two things. There was a replica WWI trench exhibit that you can walk through and get the feel for that life style. It was very dark and the mannequin in the corner really freaked me out. I then rounded the corner and saw another female mannequin casually reading something on the wall of the trench. I sort of jumped when I saw her too, stared a bit just to make sure, wondered why a female in modern clothes would be in a WWI trench, realized she was not a mannequin, wondered if she noticed my awkward and inquisitive looking at her, am still amazed at how still she can be, and awkwardly crept away. I then went through the trench again because I thought it would be bigger and thought I should have taken a more thorough look at the display. However there was this older man following me and when I turned to go back through I heard him say "oh, there must be more" just to follow me through the same room again and I bet he was thinking what a weird American the entire time. Sometimes the simple things are just SO HARD.

I thought there was a short film showing how women in 2005 set out to built a barrel-top wagon. I never found the short film but did find the wagon upstairs way in the back. I also went by this quickly because I was really looking for the film and later when I went back to the stairs to see it again there was a sign saying that upstairs was closed because they were building an exhibit up there - basically I think I illegally went to the second floor. I hate it when I involuntarily break the rules.

The only video I did find was footage from an Irish Exhibition held in the early 1900's. Apparently this was the relatively prosperous and happy Edwardian part of Irish history and Cork held many of the festivities. There was a blossoming film maker hired to record some events and they showed this silent, black and white footage, as part of a display. 

Random museum pics:

My coffee and raspberry treat at the museum cafe.

And finally, I wandered around the beautiful park in which the museum is situated. It is called Fitzgerald Park, and even though today was cold and rainy, I found this place very quaint and artsy.

Wow, this post ended up a LOT longer than anticipated, but as I always say (or maybe as I should say more), learning has no limit!

That's a Wrap!

I have some well-defined and consistent favorite foods. I can really appreciate a good lasagna (I can also really appreciate a Stouffer's lasagna - either way), I am obsessed with the Chicken Tikka Masala served at my college food court, I really like pork chops, and my heart swoons for some Oklahoma Joe's barbecue. But, friends, there is a new and deserving addition to this exclusive list of deliciousness. My newest favorite food is this beautiful masterpiece:

Pictured is the chicken and cranberry wrap from Delia's Cafe in Cork City Centre. I tried to link the restaurant but can't find it on the web making me think the whole experience was a dream: man it tasted like one! The salad was delicious, a green leafy vegetable I had never tried before with balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and shredded Parmesan cheese. But the crowning jewel was the wrap. The wrap had grilled chicken, cranberry sauce, and melted brie cheese running throughout the perfectly toasted, yet still soft, tortilla. The balsamic vinegar wonderfully accentuated the harmony of flavors and every bite was just as enjoyable as the last. Even the water was preternaturally exquisite just by being in the presence of this meal. And best of all, it only cost 6.50 euros. 

This plated delicacy deserved its own post, and I did my best to do it justice. Just looking at the picture makes me want to go back and eat another. every. day.

Mass - in 37 minutes

A very interesting cultural experience happened this morning in a very unexpected location: church.

I have been going to Catholic mass on a weekly basis my entire life. Last week I went with some friends to a modern Christian church. But this week I thought I would go to the Catholic church around the corner for a more traditional and familiar experience. The general format of the mass was similar. However key and very apparent differences made this experience one of the most interesting and eye-opening of the trip thus far. 

First, the mass started with one passionate parishioner in the front initiating the hymn and the rest of the congregation following. No piano, organ, or any other instrument was used as accompaniment and the reverberation and lag through the large church created an unintended round. The only other singing came at the end of mass as the priest walked out. This was very different as I am used to at least a piano accompaniment and a cantor leading the crowd.

Every prayer being recited at double speed was another idiosyncrasy. The priest began each prayer and it was off to the races. Being in sync didn't matter and, though no official prize was handed out, every person individually strove to finish the prayer first. I am not sure why this happens but it was a bit refreshing as the prayers back home are always said in unison, very slowly, and I tend to rush the people around me anyway. In the same fast manner, the homily was only 5 minutes in duration.

Third, there was no wine/blood at communion. Many people back home consider the drink optional anyway, but here it wasn't even a choice. Additionally with communion, no formal filing system was used to get everyone through in an orderly fashion. People sort of stampeded to the front of the church and slowly merged to the center to receive communion from the priest. 

When the Our Father began, I thought surely I can get this part right, except about 10 seconds in, my friend and I realized they weren't speaking in English. And whatever language that was being spoken (my guess is Latin) was done so with the usual quick pace (so naturally the prayer was over by the time we began to understand the situation). 

In such a normal place for me to be, I never expected the variety and difference that I experienced this morning. The service, as shown in the title, was 37 minutes long (which you could easily tell by the analog clock visibly hung on a pillar in front of the bulk of the congregation). I don't know if this is routine for Catholic churches in Ireland, but I was definitely surprised and intrigued by the characteristics of their mass when compared to ours.

When in a different country, even the small and natural things can be wild cultural experiences.

Music and the Blarney Stone

Another sequence of busy days have kept me from updating the blog!

Here goes:

First off, my music class has begun. We have had lectures on the origins of traditional Irish music, how to play the bodhran and the tin whistle, and singing and dance classes. To supplement this formal education, I have been making rounds of the Cork music scene: a traditional session Monday night at a small pub, an informal gig in Blarney on Tuesday, and another concert tonight. As a "classically" trained violinist and singer (everyone here is a "fiddler"), I am amazed by the talent and improvising abilities of every musician I have seen. Irish traditional music is passed on orally and is not written down in a formal way. My training was led by music books - and music books didn't even exist in this style until recently.  Because musicians have the pieces memorized, at a session, one person starts playing a solo and the other musicians (ranging in age and instrument) all join in without any discussion, chord charts, or previous practice with the group. It is amazing! And, after this daily inspiration, I hope to improve my fiddling skills when I return home!

Learning the polka

Our polka players

Second, I visited Blarney. Some friends and I gathered a group and we all embarked on the adventure together. Blarney is about 20 minutes from Cork and is quaint and exactly what you would expect in the Irish countryside. We went to the Wollen Mills when we arrived and shopped around the beautiful wool clothing and jewelry. When the rest of our group came, we headed over to the castle and made our way to the top, kissing the famous stone which gives one the gift of gab (because we all know I need to be more talkative...). We ate dinner at a local hotel and then watched a new musician friend dance and play her fiddle during a traditional music session. All in all it was a great night!

Finally, I went to the well-known English Market in Cork City Centre to buy some food. There was a lot of interesting items and fish that I ran into while walking around this extensive shopping area.

Hope all is well in Kansas and thanks for reading!

Pasta, Turkey, and Balancing Beer

Day 5: 
WE FINALLY FOUND A GROCERY STORE! This was the best thing ever as my roommates and I had been looking for one since Thursday - and I don't handle well when hungry. 

I am a Target kind of girl, and that makes things really difficult in Ireland. Unlike Kansas, they don't have a single, large store, where you go and get everything. If you need food you have to go to the grocery store, home goods a home store, a bicycle a bike store, and so on. And it is not like all of these places are consolidated into a single strip mall or shopping center either. Every place is dispersed and hidden amongst the charming, winding, and confusing streets.

So anyway, the grocery store. We walked out of the grocery store like total tourists with carts full of food, no way to get them home, and no bags (as they are big fans of reusable totes over here). This Irish woman (about sixty and seemingly harmless) came up and offered us a nice burlap shopping sack she no longer wanted. After the awkward "no thanks, we are swell" exchanges, she kindly insisted we take the bag as it really would be doing her a big favor. When we had all gathered on the curb staring at the obviously-not-hand-carryable loot in our carts, the same lady came over and insisted she give us a ride home. 

Now, reader, I know what you are thinking: stranger danger, did you miss all of the kidnapping stories when you were a child (?), never get in the blue van. 

We let her give us a ride home. Her name was Mary McDonald. She lives by the loch. And when I pointed to the street we needed to turn onto, she went the other direction which is when I assumed we were being abducted. It turns out she knew a shortcut. Literally it was hilarious, and sketchy, but mainly hilarious!

So far everything I have eaten from the grocery store has been delicious except for the sliced turkey - lesson learned.

For lunch I cooked pasta with broccoli and red sauce. Not bad if I do say so myself. And of course I made too much and we don't have tupperware so the rest is chilling (pun) in the fridge in my quart-sized airplane ziploc. You make what you've got work, you know?

My broccoli, pasta, and red sauce!

Later, one roommate and I looked for a music store so she could buy a tin whistle for our music program. Google maps took up to a residential neighborhood and we asked a woman painting her fence where we could find a tin whistle. She laughed noting that the only people who need tin whistles in Ireland are grade schoolers who have to play them in music class. She then sent us next door to another neighbor who she was sure would know where to buy one.

We knocked on the door and waited. A groggy-looking man answered, our knock having interrupted his nap, and we explained how Nora (the fence lady) had sent us his way. He very nicely directed us to the city center which is a 30-minute walk from the neighborhood we were in. 

This seemed like a perfect opportunity to hop on a bus and see where it would take us - so that's what we did. And the bus that we randomly jumped on went right where we needed to go! Except, the two stores were closed.

Awkward and on the bus! 

After walking back I made a sandwich for dinner and that is when I found out about the turkey as previously noted.

Day 6:
This morning I decided to wander around a bit on my own and see where the road would lead me. I finally got to take a closer look at St. Fin Barre's Cathedral pictured below.

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral

I walked down to the city, found a coffee shop where I had a toastie (this sandwich with cheese melted on the outside!) and some coffee. I wandered around a mall that I accidentally walked into, found a bookstore, a department store, and an Irish souvenir shop. Having spent more time shopping than intended I caught a cab back. The driver and I discussed winter road conditions the whole ride home.

My new favorite coffee spot

Chicken and bacon toastie with frozen coffee

At 3:30pm, Cork played Tipperary in hurling and it was a big deal! As the locals do, we went to the corner pub to watch the match. It was me, my two friends, and about thirty middle-aged men cursing and carrying on! I sported my red pants, because Cork's colors are red and white, and we watched the game even though we didn't know what was going on. This sport appears to be a mix of lacrosse, rugby, soccer, baseball, football, and hockey - so you can understand the confusion.

Unfortunately we lost and will not be playing in the final. We ended up talking to a group of grandfather-aged men and they were very sociable. The discussed Cork, gave us maps of the city, and we happily answered any of many questions about America.

One of the men at the pub balanced his beer like this and told me to take a picture, so, here

For dinner I made a grilled sandwich (cooking the turkey helps the taste a bit), and had some instant coffee as they don't have coffee makers so go for the pour-and-mix kind.

As before, so far so good! I hope to update this at least every other day and appreciate all of the readers from back home!

Yours,
The Opinionated Lassie

In Cork, Settled, and Tired

I write this after a very busy 3 days struggling with the time change and getting used to things here. 

Day 2:

After a wonderful night of sleep I woke up and mozied down stairs to begin my day. We went to an Italian restaurant where I had a Hawaiian pizza and I shopped with my cousin and her mother. We saw downtown Dublin, Trinity college, and went into many beautiful shops along the way. My major purchase of the day was a tin whistle from an Irish souvenir shop.

Literally, Best Day Ever

I have been to Ireland and Dublin before on a family trip at the end of grade school. The whole time since,

 I think back to the few things I remember and was excited to revisit some of these places while walking around downtown Dublin. The funny thing is, I remember everything wrong. A bit sad I suppose, however it was interesting reconciling my severely inaccurate memories with the actual locations and seeing them again at an age where I will remember them more vividly in the future.

When I tried to sleep that night, the jet lag set in big time. I stared at the ceiling until two in the morning when I finally started playing 2048 on my phone. This is a game I have been attempting to win since January and have failed every time. Of course, on this night of all nights, I won it (at 3am)! My celebration, however, was silent and short because my cousin was sleeping soundly no more than 3 feet away from me.

Day 3:

I slept in late after the difficult night and gathered my things for the train ride to Cork. Cork is 2.5 hours from Dublin and my cousin (who graciously helped me move) drove us to the station so we could make the train just in the nick of time.

On the Train

The ride was pleasant and I talked to a friendly Dubliner who had just returned from a 7-month journey in Asia. I also tried to make conversation with a woman from Cork but she was not very eager to talk to me so I read my book.

Cork City Centre

Cork City Centre

We took a taxi to my accommodation and I moved into my humble abode (very humble, but comfy and clean). We ran to Penney’s to grab towels and other necessities, got a burger at a local restaurant, and then my cousin left to head home.

Cork City Centre

After I had organized my room, two other Kansas girls and I went to a pub to experience the local culture. As planned, my first drink here was a pint of Guinness that I enjoyed more than anticipated! We also befriended an elderly Irish man who gave the scoop on local food and attractions.

When the normal size is just not enough...

My first meal, chicken and chips!

Cheers!

Day 4:

Orientation Day consisted of a lot of presentations. The presenter for the music program looked very chill and seems like he will be a fun leader for the next three weeks!

The Student Center on campus

My roommates and I made another Penney’s run to gather other things I decided I needed and came back to the apartment to relax a bit. At orientation the student union board told everyone to meet at a local pub for “bonding time” that night so, trying to follow the directions of our superiors, we went to the pub that evening as instructed. This proved a good time to mingle and introduce ourselves to other Americans who are also attending the end-of-summer programs. (And it is literally so hilarious trying to get numbers and such because very few people have figured out their cell phone situation at this point.)

A picturesque bridge on campus

All in all, my room is looking quite nice and feeling homier the more trips to Penney’s I make. Things here are sooooo different from home and the culture shock has definitely set in already. It will be beneficial to settle into a schedule next week and get a better lay of the land and the campus but, so far so good!

The Journey and Day 1

After many days of waiting, planning, and anxious anticipation, the day finally came for me to depart for Ireland and begin my year abroad! My itinerary, if all proceeds as planned, will include studies this semester in Cork, returning home to Kansas for winter break, and returning to Ireland second semester for studies in Dublin. Two days ago - broadly speaking, as with the time change 6 hours of my life never happened - was the first day of the first part of my itinerary as I began my travels to the Emerald Isle.

Leaving for Ireland!

My first flight was to Chicago and I was lucky enough to be in the front row, had nobody sitting next to me, and the flight attendant was very cheery and nice. After only an hour and a half I landed and was quickly off to catch my other flight.

Generally speaking, I dislike long layovers. They seem like a waste of one's day and airports can only entertain me for so long. However at any given time, I would much rather take a long boring layover to one where I am running around like an idiot, asking every security guard for directions, and having just over one hour to change terminals, print new boarding passes, spend thirty minutes in security, and having no spare time to blink let alone eat a meal. This layover, unfortunately, was the latter.

However, I did make it! I arrived to the gate as my section was boarding, and was happily seated in the very last row, in a relatively nice airplane, with again no one in the seat next to me, and convenient bathroom access (until I realized that the only bathrooms were toward the middle of the aircraft).

I had my own little television screen and contently watched Living the Tradition, a documentary about the history of Irish airs. I ate a plane/plain chicken meal for dinner and watched a bit of Divergent before dosing off. 

When I woke up I finally spoke to the nearest person sitting next to me. He was from Pittsburgh, PA, and was in route to Scotland where his 8 week cycling tour would commence. I never actually learned his name but he was quite amiable.

After an oh-my-gosh-the-airport-wifi-won't-work scare, I made my way outside where my cousin was kindly waiting to retrieve me. I, of course, went to the wrong side of the car and after being directed to the correct side's passenger door, spent the rest of the ride home thinking we were turning into oncoming traffic (as they drive on the left which just isn't right).

Once we arrived to her family's house, we got some food, and some tea, and visited the bucolic Powerscourt Estate for a delicious lunch of chicken and sun-dried tomato Ceasar salad. Later we drove a bit more around the city - seeing the college I will attend second semester - and ended at the very large and modern Dundrum Town Center which included a lot of cool shops, a STARBUCKS (thank goodness!), and a Penney's (not the same as JCPenney's) where I will buy many items (as it is very trendy and affordable) throughout this journey.
After more tea and chicken curry for dinner, I settled in to my comfy bed.

The view from Powerscourt Estate.

In front of the house at Powerscourt Estate.

The house at Powerscourt Estate.